Though there’s a saying that every part of a pig can be used except the squeal, a cow is nearly as versatile. Following are 10 types of cow’s meat:
1. Chuck:
The chuck comes from the shoulder of the cow, and since the muscle has to work hard to move the animal around, it has a lot of connective tissue. Cuts from this part of the animal are meant to be braised or put in stews. Popular cuts are the chuck eye roast, boneless shoulder pot roast, blade roast, short ribs, and boneless top blade steak.
2. Brisket:
The brisket is found below the shoulder but above the leg or the shank. It is a famously fatty meat that needs to be braised or roasted. This part of the cow is made into corned beef and is served as luncheon meat. Corn has nothing to do with the vegetable but is a word for the rock salt used to prepare the meat.
3. Shank:
Shank is the meat found at the top of both the forelegs and the hind legs of the animal. Both of these cuts are gelatinous, and the hind shank is especially grisly, but many people love the taste. Cow’s hooves are also used as well as the shanks.
4. Rib:
The rib is next to the chuck and between the loin. This is where roast beef comes from, including the beautifully prepared standing roasts served with Yorkshire pudding. The rib can be bought boneless, but the meat tastes better with the bone in. Short ribs are found further down the animal’s ribcage and are good braised or cooked in pot roasts.
5. Loin:
The loin lies next to the rib and provides the tenderest meat because this part of the animal doesn’t really have to work much. Sometimes it is larded to keep it moist, and it’s often cut into steaks. The thinnest steaks are the fillets mignons, followed by tournedos, which are often wrapped in pork fat, then the tenderloin and the Chateaubriand. The sirloin is found in the upper part of the loin right at the rump. It gets its name because it was so good that Henry VIII knighted it. Hence, Sir Loin.
6. Flank:
The flank is at the bottom of the loin and its thinner part is used to make beef stock and stews. It grows more tender the closer it is to the cow’s leg. Flank steak and flank steak rolls are best broiled, pan-broiled or fried. Skirt steak is lean meat from this area. In America, it’s called London broil and is often served in strips. In England, it’s mixed with chuck meat and kidney for pies and puddings.
7. Tip:
The tip is a triangular muscle whose sides are bordered by the loin, the flank, and the round. When it’s whole, it makes a delicious roast, but it’s often cubed for stews.
8. Rump:
The rump is right next to the sirloin and so provides amazingly juicy roasts and steaks. Meat from this area often has a few sinews, but these can be easily cut out with a paring knife.
9. Round:
The round lies beneath the rump and is pretty much the cow’s thigh area. Top round from inside the leg is excellent in a pot roast and just as good braised, but it is so lean that it often gets wrapped in fat or lard. It can be roasted, but roasting risks drying the meat out. One way to avoid this is to cook the round roast until it is no more than blood rare. When it is this rare it also makes very good luncheon meat.
The bottom round is much like the top round, but shouldn’t be oven roasted because it is too lean. It is for stews and pot roasts.
10. Organ Meats:
These include the kidney and the liver, which are rich in iron. Calf’s liver and brains are also enjoyed, and the tongue is considered excellent luncheon meat. Fat Cow Best Butcher Brisbane.
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Following a ketogenic diet means cutting down the Carbohydrates content in your food and increasing the fat content. This is to ensure that the body consumes fat in order to get the energy required for its functioning. A ketogenic diet is known to have a number of benefits ranging from weight loss to sugar level control. A lot of people rely on keto diets to decrease their body weight and get in shape because of their highly effective results. Also, following the low-Carb diet helps in regulating the sugar level in the body, thus proving to be a boon for persons suffering from diabetes. The sugar level in the body can be checked easily with the help of smack at ketone strips.
Food intake on a ketogenic diet needs to be done very carefully and only after analysis the proper effects of what you're eating. There are certain foods which have high nutritious value but need to be avoided on a low-Carb diet because of their high Carbohydrates content. To make things simpler for you, here is a list of the items that you can eat while being on a keto diet:
1. Seafood:
Apart from being a good source of vitamins, minerals, and other fatty acids, seafood is one of the major food recommendations for those who are on a keto diet. This is because there are several types of seafood which are low in carbs and even those which are free of carbs. You can rely on clams, mussels, octopus, oysters, and squid as their carb content is very low.
2. Eggs:
Eggs are of the most suitable foods to eat on a ketogenic diet. This is because of the fact that egg contains less than 1 gram of Carbohydrates, thus can be considered as a low-Carb food. Another benefit with eggs is that they keep a check on the appetite so that you don't end up feeling hungry every now and then.
3. Cheese:
Cheese is a food which is known for its taste and high nutritional There are a lot of varieties of cheese available in the market and almost all of them are rich in fat and low in Carbohydrates. You can safely rely on cheese while being on a keto diet.
4. Low-Carb vegetables:
The non-starchy vegetables are considered to be keto-friendly as they are low in Carbohydrates along with having an ample amount of nutrients. You can choose to eat cauliflower, kale, and broccoli if you're on a low-carb diet. These vegetables will keep a check on the carb intake along with supplying the required minerals and vitamins to the body.
5. Avocados:
Avocados help greatly in controlling blood sugar level and keeping a check on cholesterol level. Being rich in nutrients and minerals, avocados are known to contain a low value of Carbohydrates. So, they're safe to consume on a keto diet.
6. Meat and poultry:
Meat and poultry are a great source of Vitamin B, Omega-3 fat, and antioxidants. Being rich in protein, they're helpful in preserving muscle mass while you're on a low-carb diet.
7. Olive oil:
Olive oil is considered to be a companion for your heart because it is known to contain oleic acid which lowers the risk of heart-related diseases. Being high in fat, olive oil is free from Carbohydrates and a very good option to consider on a keto diet.
8. Berries:
Unlike most fruits, berries are known to contain a minimal amount of Carbohydrates. Eating blackberries, raspberries, blueberries, and strawberries can be keto-friendly.
Conclusion:
Amidst tough competition, you can rely on these foods to cater to your energy needs without having to compromise with your ketogenic diet. If you want to get more info, visit Seriously Smoked.
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For a casual wine drinker, wine is usually categorized as white wine, rose wine, blush wine and of course red wine. The supermarket sells many choices for each; we have Vin de table or the cheap but classic wine ranging to the most expensive amounting to thousands of dollars per bottle.
Truth be told, most people read the labels but can’t understand it. We know that it is red wine or white wine but we have a little amount of knowledge about the types of wine grapes they use, and that is the most important thing. This is because the wine grape used in manufacturing, predicts and give off the taste, texture, and smell of the wine itself.
Well yes, it can be generalized that white wine is mostly this, and red wine is mainly that, and the list goes on. But, if we try to understand and know the wine grape used in production then, it will be easier for us to choose the perfect wine from shelf to shelf. So read on and let’s have a glimpse of which type of wine will mostly tickle your taste buds.
The Best Red Wine that Suits Your Taste:
Cabernet Sauvignon:
If you’re familiar with Currant and black cherries, then Cabernet Sauvignon radically tastes like this. Sometimes, upon drinking you can also taste that green olive and bell pepper feel that adds up to the wholeness of the wine. This is the trademark of Napa Valley and is also considered the primary component of Bordeaux.
This wine is grown all over the globe, but only a few can achieve to produce the best Cabernet Sauvignon wine due to many factors like climate, soil component, and of course processing. Thus, each continent has its style of this wine, some tend to have that darker shade, and some have that strong aroma.
Cabernet Franc:
If you’re more into violets and blueberry, this is the type of red wine grape for you. This is considered the cousin of Cabernet Sauvignon and this is one of the significant classifications of the Bordeaux wine. Compared to its cousin, this gives off that earthy taste, and you can tell it from its aroma, emitting a scent of freshly roasted coffee.
Of course, this wine grape is also grown all over the globe. It only varies in the number of tannin contents because of the different climate and topographical conditions during its growth. Also, since additives are combined with this red wine, it can result in a minty, and pungent taste.
Pinot Noir:
If the flavor of cola, root beer, plum, pale cherry, tomato leaf, and blackberry combined excites your palate, then this is what you are looking for. Pinot Noir is also the significant components of champagne and other sparkly wine during production. For connoisseurs, this red wine is a delicacy.
And since it is a delicacy, Pinot Noir requires demanding supervision from winemakers since this type is fragile and prone to weedy flavors if not taken care of properly. It is usually grown in single-vineyard wine in Oregon and California.
Merlot:
If you like the taste of watermelons, strawberry or plum, then this is your best choice. Merlot is like the middleman of all these types as it doesn’t have that strong feature in its taste, and aroma. It is the purest red wine and the epitome of “Vin de table.” Merlot is best produced in Washington and most preferred red wine during the 1990s, but due to oversupply, over pricing, production of poor and bland quality, it lost its reputation.
Malbec:
If you’re into sour and spicy impression, then Malbec is for you. This type of red wine isn’t that known in the globe, but it has been the pride and glory of Argentina. Malbec is usually aged in oak barrels that add to its flavor over time.
Gamay:
If you prefer a fruity, somewhat sweet taste, then look for this wine grape. It usually tastes like raspberry, fresh cherries, and strawberry. Gamay gives off that slight fizz and has the aroma of bananas. Gamay is best consumed when still young if you want to experience that bright, and tangy flavor.
Sangiovese:
If you are fond of the scent and taste of tobacco leaf, and pie cherry, the search is over since Sangiovese is for you. This type is the main grape in Tuscany and has also been the main component of other well-known wines. Sangiovese is quite acidic compared, but lighter in color when compared to other wine grapes.
In Italy, Sangiovese is usually mixed with Cabernet Sauvignon to level off with the later, thus creating the “Super Tuscany.” Besides Italy, Sangiovese is best produced in Walla Walla Valley in Washington, but elsewhere this type is undistinguished and considered dull.
Not all supermarkets and local stores are retailers of a vast variety of red wine, so not all stores can satisfy those parched palates. To achieve the greatest experience with red wine, there are online wine merchants who can offer you tons of choices. Sokolin Red Wine is there to help you browse through tons of options coming from all over the globe. When it comes to wine, you can never settle for whatever is in stock.
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If there is something that I have learned in life, it is about gardening. Well, almost everything if not all. And if there is one thing that took me some time to master, it was knowing how to harvest potatoes at home!
Potatoes are one of the most versatile and popular vegetables in the world. They can be cooked in many different ways, such as boiled, baked, fried, mashed, or roasted. Moreover, they are also rich in carbohydrates, fiber, vitamin C, potassium, and antioxidants.
But how do you grow and harvest your own potatoes at home? You see, potatoes are not like cilantro or other plants. These are tubers.
In this article, I will show you everything you need to know about how to harvest potatoes, from planting to storage.
So, if that is something that you are interested in knowing, then I have you covered! Keep on reading this blog till the end to learn more...
How to Plant Potato Seeds or Tubers?
The first step in how to harvest potatoes is to plant them. You can start with either potato seeds or tubers. Potato seeds are small, round, and black, and they are usually sold in packets.
Potato tubers are the actual potatoes that you eat, and they have eyes or buds that can sprout new plants.
You can buy certified seed potatoes from a nursery or garden center, or use organic potatoes from the grocery store.
Here are some if the steps that you must take to plant them:
Planting Potato Seeds
To plant potato seeds, you need to sow them indoors in pots or trays filled with moist potting soil.
Place them in a sunny spot and keep the soil moist but not soggy.
The seeds will germinate in about two weeks and produce small green shoots.
When the shoots are about 3 inches tall, you can transplant them outdoors in your garden or in containers.
Planting Potato Tubers
To plant potato tubers, you need to cut them into pieces, each with at least one eye.
You can do this a few days before planting to let the cut surfaces heal and prevent rotting. Alternatively, you can plant whole small potatoes with several eyes.
To prepare the soil, you need to loosen it and add some organic matter, such as compost or manure.
You also need to make sure the soil is well-drained and slightly acidic, with a pH of 5.0 to 6.0.
You can use a soil test kit to check the pH level and adjust it with lime or sulfur if needed.
Planting Potato Pieces
To plant the potato pieces, you need to dig a trench about 4 inches deep and 12 inches wide.
Place the pieces about 12 inches apart, with the eyes facing up.
Cover them with 3 inches of soil and water well.
As the plants grow, you need to hill up the soil around them to cover the lower stems and prevent the tubers from being exposed to sunlight, which can turn them green and bitter.
You can also mulch the soil with straw, leaves, or grass clippings to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
How to Care for Your Potato Plants?
The second step in how to harvest potatoes is to care for your potato plants. You need to water them regularly, especially during dry spells, to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. You also need to fertilize them every two weeks with a balanced organic fertilizer, such as fish emulsion or seaweed extract. Also, you can add some wood ash or bone meal to provide extra potassium and phosphorus, which are essential for tuber formation.
You also need to protect your potato plants from pests and diseases, which can reduce your yield and quality. Some of the common potato pests are:
Colorado potato beetles, which are yellow and black striped insects that feed on the leaves and can defoliate the plants. You can handpick them and drop them in a bucket of soapy water, or use an organic insecticide, such as neem oil or pyrethrin.
Potato leafhoppers, which are small, green, winged insects that suck the sap from the leaves and cause them to curl and yellow. You can spray them with a strong jet of water, or use an organic insecticide, such as garlic or hot pepper spray.
Wireworms, which are thin, brown, worm-like larvae that bore into the tubers and cause holes and tunnels. You can trap them with pieces of carrot or potato buried in the soil, or use beneficial nematodes, which are microscopic worms that parasitize and kill the wireworms.
Common Potato Diseases
One of the most common reasons why a potato cannot grow or survive is the diseases. If you were wondering what some of these can be and how to deal with them, I have you covered!
Some of the common potato diseases are:
Late Blight: It is a fungal disease that causes brown spots on the leaves and stems, and black or brown lesions on the tubers. It can spread rapidly and destroy the entire crop. You can prevent it by planting resistant varieties, avoiding overhead watering, and removing any infected plants and tubers. You can also use a fungicide, such as copper or sulfur, as a preventive measure.
Scab: This is a bacterial disease that causes rough, corky patches on the tubers. It does not affect the taste or edibility of the potatoes, but it reduces their appearance and storage quality. You can prevent it by planting resistant varieties, maintaining a slightly acidic soil pH, and avoiding excessive nitrogen fertilization.
Potato Virus Y: Lastly, this is a viral disease that causes mosaic patterns, mottling, or yellowing on the leaves, and misshapen or knobby tubers. It can reduce the yield and quality of the potatoes, and it can be transmitted by aphids or infected seed potatoes. You can prevent it by planting certified virus-free seed potatoes, controlling aphids, and removing any infected plants and tubers.
How to Determine When Your Potatoes Are Ready to Harvest?
The third step in how to harvest potatoes is to determine when they are ready to harvest. This depends on the type and variety of potatoes you planted, and the size and maturity you want.
There are two main types of potatoes: early and late.
Early potatoes are ready to harvest in about 10 to 12 weeks (about 3 months) after planting, and they produce small to medium-sized tubers that are tender and thin-skinned. They are best for boiling, steaming, or roasting.
Late potatoes are ready to harvest in about 15 to 20 weeks (about 4 and a half months) after planting, and they produce large, starchy tubers that are firm and thick-skinned. They are best for baking, mashing, or frying.
Early Harvesting
To harvest early potatoes, you can start digging them up when the plants begin to flower, or when the lower leaves start to yellow.
You can use a garden fork or a spade to gently lift the plants and tubers from the soil, or you can use your hands to feel for the tubers under the soil.
You can harvest as many or as few potatoes as you need, and leave the rest in the ground until you are ready to use them.
You can also harvest some of the young, tender leaves and stems, which are edible and nutritious.
Late Harvesting
To harvest late potatoes, you need to wait until the plants have died back completely, or until the first frost.
This allows the tubers to develop a thicker skin, which helps them store better.
You can use a garden fork or a spade to dig up the entire row of plants and tubers, or you can use a potato digger, which is a special tool that lifts and separates the tubers from the soil.
You need to be careful not to damage or bruise the tubers, as this can cause rotting or spoilage.
How to Dig Up, Cure, and Store Your Potatoes?
The final step in how to harvest potatoes is to dig up, cure, and store your potatoes. This is important to preserve the quality and shelf life of your potatoes, and to prevent them from sprouting, rotting, or shrinking. Here are the steps to follow:
Digging Up
After digging up your potatoes, you need to brush off any excess soil and remove any damaged, diseased, or green tubers.
Do not wash your potatoes, as this can remove the protective skin and invite bacteria and fungi. You can wash them just before cooking or eating them.
Curing
You need to cure your potatoes for about two weeks in a cool, dark, and well-ventilated place, such as a basement, garage, or shed.
This allows the skin to harden and heal any minor cuts or bruises and enhances the flavor and texture of the potatoes.
The ideal temperature for curing is between 50°F and 60°F, and the ideal humidity is between 80% and 90%.
You can spread your potatoes in a single layer on a newspaper, cardboard, or wooden crate, and avoid exposing them to light, which can turn them green and bitter.
Storing
You need to store your potatoes in a cool, dark, and dry place, such as a cellar, pantry, or closet. The ideal temperature for storage is between 40°F and 50°F, and the ideal humidity is between 65% and 70%.
You can store your potatoes in paper bags, cardboard boxes, mesh bags, or wooden crates, and check them regularly for any signs of sprouting, rotting, or shriveling.
You can also store your potatoes in a root cellar, which is an underground or partially underground structure that maintains a constant temperature and humidity.
Additionally, you can also store your potatoes in a clamp, which is a mound of straw, hay, or leaves covered with soil, that insulates and protects the potatoes from frost and rodents.
Wrapping It Up!
If you want to know about how to harvest potatoes, I hope that this blog has been of help to you. However, if there are any other queries related to the same, please feel free to let me know.
All that you need to do is scroll down till you reach the bottom of the page. Then leave your comments and suggestions in the box below. And I will be there to answer them all for you!
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